Repair a broken HP LaserJet printer by baking it
After my HP printer died just after his warranty period I searched for a solution what to do to revive it. When reported to HP they wanted to charge €350 to repair the printer, which is around the same amount a new printer would cost, besides that I had to ship to whole bulky printer to them. When searching the internet for an alternative you will find a lot of people with the same problem using this printer series but not a lot of clear solutions.
This write-up will describe a way to repair the HP LaserJet M1522 series printer. While this idea is not new I wanted to create an easy to follow overview to repair this printer instead of a “just bake the formatter board”. I hope this write-up will be handy for some of the people out there with the same problem. While this write-up is focusing on the HP LaserJet M1522 MFP printer I would expect the same approach to work on other faulty hardware.
The problem with the HP LaserJet M1522 printer series seems to be a faulty formatter board. Since this problem exists in a lot of units you would expect HP to take care of this and have their people informed about the problems with this unit. However when contacting HP they will quite likely have no idea what is wrong with the unit, at least that was my experience.
The symptoms of a faulty formatter board are among the following:
- The printer seems to turn off completely out of itself
- The printer hangs when booting up
- The printer needs a couple of resets before it will boot correctly
- The printer won’t turn on anymore at all
Usually the problems with the formatter board will get worse over time until the moment the printer won’t do anything at all anymore. The display of the printer will probably display the messages “Initializing…” and “Hewlett-Packard >>>>>” while is hanging during the boot cycle:
The problems with the formatter board seem to be caused by bad solder connections, so the way we are going to fix this is by ‘baking’ the formatter board. This write-up will take you through the steps you need to take to fix the printer by baking the formatter board. The only downside to this approach is that this fix only lasted for 6 months for me after which I had to bake the formatter board again.
DISCLAIMER: This write-up is just for your information, I am not responsible for what you do with your printer. Keep in mind that this is Fringe-IT and that in doubt you should just buy a new printer and leave projects like this to people who have an idea about what they are doing.
Instructions
Find the screw located at the right side of the back of the printer as shown in the picture below. This screw is the only one we need to unscrew to be able to take the left side of the printer off, so lets remove it.
After removing the screw we can pop open the side panel, however there is a small latch at the bottom of the printer which you need to press for an easy release. See the picture below for the small latch.
After popping off the side panel we can already see the fomatter board, we see two boards and the bigger one on top is the formatter:
Since we need to work on this formatter we will have to get it disconnected from the rest of the printer. The first thing to do is to disconnect all the ribbons and connectors shown in the picture below.
After disconnecting all connections from above it is time to remove the five screws holding the formatter board in its place:
After removing the 5 screws the formatter board can easily be taken out of the printer. Before we can bake the formatter board we should remove the on-board battery from it. It is quite likely the battery won’t take the heat from the baking so well. The battery is located in the top right corner of the formatter board as can be seen below. Pay attention to its orientation, you probably do not want to connect it back the wrong way around.
When turning the formatter board over you can see the two solder connections of the battery. The easiest way to desolder the battery is by heating the solder and sucking it away with a solder sucker.
After removing the battery the board is almost ready to be put in to the oven.
Because we don’t want to have the formatter board touching any part of the oven we will create some small stands for it to stand on. The easiest way to do this is to get some tinfoil and create small stands like shown on the picture below.
The tinfoil stands are pushed through the holes of the screws of the formatter board and after this the board is ready to be put inside the oven.
Make sure that the formatter board is not touching any part of the oven, this might cause overheating or melting certain parts of the formatter board.
We should pre-heat the oven on 180 degrees Celsius (about 350 degrees Fahrenheit) 200 degrees Celsius (about 400 degrees Fahrenheit) Update: Julius Rahmandar commented that the temperature should be a bit higher (from 180°C to 200°C) and this indeed seems to work a bit better. After popping the formatter board in the oven it is time to ‘bake’ it for 8 minutes (also on 200 degrees Celsius). Of course instead of baking the board you could probably also pop it in to the microwave for a short moment, but I would advise against that
After these 8 minutes we should let the formatter board cool down for a while, be warned that the formatter board will be quite hot. After the formatter board has cooled down it is time to read this write-up backwards and follow all the steps to put the printer back together. So, remove the tinfoil stands, solder back the battery, screw the formatter board back in to the printer, reconnect all the wires and ribbons and put the casing back.
Turn on your printer and if you are lucky it should be working again!
Some of the sources I used and more information:
- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOZ28QamZvo
- http://www.fixyourownprinter.com/forums/laser/48992#88
- http://h30499.www3.hp.com/t5/Multifunction-and-All-in-One/HP-LaserJet-M1522nf-freezes-up-nothing-responds/m-p/1155838
The official formatter board part number is: CC368-60001



















Thys, I did something similar to my MacBookPro logic board that failed to boot up all the way. MBPs built during 2007/2008 have NVIDIA graphic BGA chip and the solder joint would fail after 2-3 years. I think the reason yours failed again after 6 month is that you did not get the temperature high enough. According to Altera (google BGA reflow), the ideal reflow temperature is 200°C or around 400°F. Just a thought.
On another subject, I am trying to modify my Altec Lansing inMotion Mini so that it will charge an iPhone when docked. This Mini only provides firewire charging thus my iPhone would say “charging not supported”. I am thinking of adding a 7805 chip with filter caps Using the 12v input as a source, but am not sure on how to make the iPhone accept it. I believe there is other signaling pins that needs to be added to make it work. Do yiou have any idea how to hack it? Thanks. Julius
Oh, BTW I do not recommend using microwave to heat the board. Metal arc’ing and possibly excessive microwave energy may cause IC failures. Don’t do it.
@Julius Rahmandar
Great reply, thanks! When my printer breaks down again I will up the temperature to see how that works out.
On the iPhone, you might want to check out this information: http://www.ladyada.net/make/mintyboost/icharge.html
Let me know if that works for you.
It works ! thankyou
Followed the steps and it worked! Thank you!!!
It works amazing!
You helped me fix my HP M1522 printer. I never could have done it without your excellent pictures.
Thank You
I have follow your instruction. My printer is working now and thank you so much. almost buying a new printer.
Holy crap… it worked! Our HP M1522nf printer in the office has been freezing up within 10 minutes after each reboot. And when it froze, nothing works: printing, photocopy, scanning. It’s been a real nightmare at the office and we were going to squeeze our budget to get a new one until we tried this out. Bake your board… it works!
Excellent instructions! The best and easiest I’ve ever seen.
Unfortunately, this fix didn’t work for me so I think my printer is toast. I’ve had so many problems with this HP device, including a warranty repair that required my printer being replaced by a refurbished model, that I’ll probably never again buy a HP.